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Who goes on holiday to Zimbabwe?
Lucy Rodgers, BBC News
August 27, 2008

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/magazine/7537622.stm

The Foreign Office warns against all but essential travel to Zimbabwe, but according to the country's tourism chiefs, thousands of people from overseas still head there every year. So who are Zimbabwe's tourists and why do they go?

With its economy shattered, poverty endemic and political strife and repression widespread, the state once described as an "outpost of tyranny" by the US is probably not at the top of everyone's holiday destination list.

But Zimbabwe boasts one of the natural wonders of the world in the magnificent Victoria Falls, the ruins of Great Zimbabwe and herds of roaming wildlife, and some hardy tourists are still being drawn across its borders.

According to the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority, more than 218,000 tourists from outside Africa entered the country last year, some 109,119 from Europe.

One of those who included the country in their travel itinerary was Adrian Wright, originally from Hampshire, who wanted to witness the elections earlier this year.

"I've always had an interest in the economy and politics and it was the most interesting time," says the 29-year-old, on a career break.

After a trip to Victoria Falls, Adrian headed to capital Harare, where he found he was the only tourist at the city's grand Meikles Hotel. The only other overnighters were election observers, he says, and the tourist industry appeared to have "completely shut down".

"I realised it wasn't going to be Disneyland. I saw a couple of other tourists in a backpacker place - but basically there was nothing to do for tourists."

Although the shops and shelves "were empty", if travellers have US dollars, supplies can always be bought on the black market which is "working proficiently", says Adrian, who now lives in Australia.

'Not recommended'

Safety was one of Adrian's main concerns and he ensured he always stayed near other people. The suburbs in particular "felt more intimidating", he says.

However, despite the challenges, Adrian says Zimbabwe was the most interesting part of his travels so far, but reluctantly admits: "I wouldn't be recommending people to go there."

As well as those attracted to Zimbabwe by history-in-the-making, the country's wildlife still acts as a draw for hunters, those on safari and volunteers on working holidays.

For former gym manager Ffion Bishop, of Kent, the desire to get involved with a lion conservation project was stronger than her safety concerns. The reassurances of her volunteer placement organisers, African Impact, also helped her feel more comfortable.

"I would have considered it [Zimbabwe] due to what I heard about the variety of wildlife here, although it would have been a harder decision if the project was not here to help," she says.

Although the 21-year-old has experienced daily power cuts, problems with telephone lines, the impact of food shortages and currency difficulties, she admits she has been shielded from much of Zimbabwe's troubles thanks to the protective environment at Antelope Park, in the country's midlands.

A generator on site allows her to "straighten her hair" and internet access means she can update her Facebook page to let family and friends know how she is doing.

Ffion has even extended her original one-month working holiday until September. "I may even come back to Zimbabwe given half a chance," she adds.

Falling numbers

But Adrian and Ffion remain in the minority. Tourism in the country is not what it once was.

In 1999, before the government began its forced seizures of white-owned commercial farms in 2000, the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority recorded 597,000 overseas arrivals. But by 2005, after the collapse of the economy, the number of visitors from outside Africa was down to a low of 201,000.

"Tourism has slowed to a trickle in the last few years," says Tom Hall, travel editor of the Lonely Planet guides.

"It is a shame because as well as Zimbabwe being the bread basket in that area of Africa - with agriculture and farming - it was also a tourism success story."

However, Zimbabwean authorities claim figures are now slowly climbing again, with 217,600 overseas tourists arriving last year. This includes a massive 42% rise in visitors from the Middle East.

"It has been a real challenge for us because not always what the media says is what is going on on the ground," says Felicia Munjaidi, who promotes Zimbabwe tourism in the UK for the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority.

The country remains a "value-for-money" destination, she says, and insists Zimbabweans are still "known worldwide as the most welcoming hospitable people".

However, not everyone accepts the optimistic figures quoted by tourism chiefs.

"I don't believe them," says John Robertson, an independent economist in Harare, who states the government is "desperate to express what is happening in more upbeat terms".

Although tourism is probably no worse than it was a few years ago, it cannot be argued there has been a recovery, he says.

"We have very, very under-occupied hotels, a very low degree of trade of tourist type items - those shops are barely functioning."

He believes it will take years for the industry to get back on its feet. Hotels need overhauling, new aircraft bought, fuel and food shortages resolved and favourable exchange rates brought in before tourists will be drawn back in any great numbers, he says.

But, he adds, the biggest challenge will be restocking the country's wildlife, which he claims could take 25 to 30 years.

The Zimbabwe Conservation Task Force estimates game ranches have lost between 80% and 90% of wildlife to poachers, with national parks down almost 40%.

"The wildlife is nowhere near as abundant as it was because of all the poaching and illegal hunting. This is all linked to the failing economy," says Johnny Rodrigues, the task force's chairman. "Unemployment is rife so the locals have no money and no food. They see the wildlife as meat for the pot."

Economic benefits

So what of the ethics of visiting a country with such a poor record on human rights and conservation?

Tourism Concern does not advise against going, but says travellers should bear in mind tourist dollars spent at "big international hotels or foreign-owned safari lodges" will not necessarily benefit local people or the wildlife.

But Timothy George, of British-based Tour Company African Sunset, is more positive about the power of tourist cash. For every 22 tourists, one job is created for a local person, he says.

He believes visitors will return to Zimbabwe because the country still has what tourists are looking for and this will, in turn, help the country get back on its feet.

"Yes, there is political strife and things that are not right in terms of what the government is doing, but the country is really something to behold. People go on holiday to have an experience and that place has that ability...it has the wow factor."

Yet, however optimistic some in the industry remain, most appear to agree Zimbabwe will only truly win back its rightful place on travellers' itineraries when it achieves genuine economic and political stability.

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