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A freedom fighter returns
Rob Crossan, The Independent (Zimbabwe)
August 29, 2008

http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/music/features/a-freedom-fighter-returns-912057.html

The phone lines are down in Zimbabwe. With frustrating regularity, the antiquated system has been collapsing for years now. For Oliver Mtukudzi, the most famous living musician still to call this deeply-scarred country his home, it means that keeping in touch with his friends and family back home is a logistical nightmare. A punctured tyre and near-deadly road crash on his current tour of the UK has only added to the communication problems:

"I wasn't on the bus but my entire band was," says Mtukudzi, his voice as dry and weathered as emery cloth as we speak in his London hotel. "We were lucky in that we have a very skilled driver, but the first thing a lot of our friends and families heard about it was when it was reported in the newspapers."

For Mtukudzi, road accidents are one of the less seditious occupational hazards of being the last remaining superstar musician still living in Zimbabwe who is prepared to speak out against the regime of Robert Mugabe.

Mtukudzi headlines the Zimfest outdoor festival in Raynes Park, south London, this Saturday. The festival, organised by three Zimbabweans - one white, one Shona and one Ndebele (the two main black ethnic groups in the country) - was initiated in 2001 with the aim of raising money to support charities and NGOs that are still operating in the country. It would seem to be a natural platform for a veteran dissident like Mtukudzi. This, after all, is the man who, as far back as 2000, was singing (in his native Shona language), a song called "Mkuru Mkuru", meaning "old man", whose lyrics spoke of a leader knowing the time to give up and bow out gracefully.

Mugabe's ZANU-PF party complained bitterly about the lyrics. Mtukudzi cunningly responded by saying: "If the leader is being affected by this song then that means there is something wrong with him. But I'm talking about any head of family. 'Mkuru Mkuru' applies to any family, but families make up a community, and communities make up the nation."

"Walk down the street in Harare, and you'll find more people of any age who love Tuku [Mtukudzi's nickname] or at least have heard of him, than you will any politician," says Gordon Glyn-Jones, one of the organisers of Zimfest. A mercurial and impudent front man, Mtukudzi, now in his fifties, may not be quite as energetic on stage as he once was, but the success of the highly distinctive musical style he has developed over the last 30 years (known as "Tuku Music") is still dependent on his booming growl of a voice, backed with a lush guitar sound, plucked to sound like the mbira. This instrument is also known as a thumb piano: a native Zimbabwean creation consisting of thin strips of steel layered across a hollowed-out calabash. Marimba, bass and resonant female backing vocals create a sound that is energetic, accessible and highly popular with British audiences: "People should come to listen," says Mtukudzi when describing his sound. "But they should also bring their dancing shoes." He sold out the Jazz Café in Camden Town, north London, last week and is expected to play in front of an audience of more than 5,000 at Zimfest.

"Every day is a struggle and it's getting worse all the time," admits Mtukudzi when I ask him about his choice to continue to live in Harare.

"I didn't choose to be a Zimbabwean but the fact that I am makes me proud. A lot of people have left the country - perhaps they have better reasons to than I do. To be proud to be Zimbabwean is a totally different thing to anyone saying they can be proud of Zimbabwe - because now, every day is a struggle."

Perhaps understandably, Tuku, as a man living under the present regime, is not a man to scream revolution when you talk to him, preferring to use more subtle methods of allegory and metaphor in his conversation and his music. He is returning home after this tour, which also takes him to South Africa, but he has no problem with headlining a festival such as Zimfest, which has been so outspoken about Mugabe's reign.

"I think it's a brilliant idea," he tells me. "Nothing is forever. Whether leaders, or me and you, like it or not, things have to turn around. Our economy is ruined but everything changes at some point. Hope is vital for all of our people. And anyway, there's no such thing as an easy life, wherever you are."

The event that started it all...

Zimfest started in 2001 as a music and arts festival for 700 people in a field behind Wandsworth Prison in south London. It was organised by "We Zimbabwe", a charity that focused on raising money for groups working with youth development, education, human rights and support for victims of the crisis in Zimbabwe.

Now spearheaded by three Zimbabweans - Phil Chikwiramakomo, Hilton Mendelsohn and Gordon Glyn Jones - this year's festival is expected to draw around 5,000 people to the Prince George Playing Fields, Raynes Park, south London on Saturday.

Appearing with Oliver Mtukudzi are a range of other Zimbabwean artists including rock act Mann Friday, Rina Mushonga and urban duo Bkay & Kazz. Tickets cost £20 in advance and £30 on the day. See www.wezimbabwe.org for more information and tickets.

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